Latitude: 52D08.86’ N Longitude: 128D05.20 W

Weather: cloudy, light rain pm.  Wind: SE 5-10kts. 

Bar: 1014 falling

Engine Hours: 128.5   Fuel OB:  538

Hiking and exploring ashore started the day with a stop to see our new canoeing friends at the parks cabin. Interesting to see the 700 lbs of gear the choose for a 3year/3000mile trip. Then a walk along a beach of solid clam shells and some scrabbling over rocks to get to the outside beach. 

By 10am we are back on board hoisting the anchor and on our way up the Fitz Hugh Sound.   It is a solid 8 hour/50 mile cruise to our next planned stop, the small resort town of Shearwater near the Indian town of Bella Bella. Just off the final turn, we must wind our way through the worst log jam of the trip so far but Dreamweaver plows a nice path and WS follows through a clear channel.

This weekend is the local are celebrating Victoria Day and there is a festival planned…we plan on a quick visit and doing some provisioning.  Tonight though, it will be prime rib dinner ashore – the first dinner out in several weeks.

Today’s Run = Engine Hrs: 136   Distance: 50/730   Fuel Used/OB:  20/518

Weather: Overcast, rain    Wind: NW 6-10kt        Bar: 1017falling

Destination Latitude: 51029.26’ Longitude: 127045.43’

Engine Hours: 117        Fuel on Board: 576       Used: 334

Today is a big day for Wandering Star and her dauntless crew. Today she will make her first open water, pure ocean passage.  Today there will be nothing between her to the West till mother Russia with so many miles of cold and storm tossed sea in between.  Today she will get her first real test as an ocean going trawler in the very waters where her type of rugged, stable and dependable working fishing boat was first conceived.

We leave the protection of Native cove at first light, and head out into Knight Channel for the open water of Queen Charlotte Sound.  Again using the ebbing tide for a push, we are able to easily get speeds over 10 knots flowing along with the logs and debris out to sea. The passage becomes wide and the going slower as the tide runs out of steam and is dissipated by the expanse. Soon 6.6 knots is the best we can do as we escape the lee of Vancouver Island into the Queen Charlotte Straits.

Other pleasure craft are all but gone now for this is the domain of the serious work boat.  Ocean tugs with there barges, Alaskan ferries, deep water fisherman and the occasional cruise ship are now our only companions.  Fortunately, we’ve picked a perfect weather day sandwiched between a gale just ended and the predicted one with 40 knots winds to arrive tomorrow.  The winds are light and more importantly, the sea is calm with a large but genteel swell rolling in from the Gulf of Alaska.

We round Cape Caution in early afternoon and make the turn for the once again protected waters of Northern British Columbia.  The day has been long, some 80 plus miles and 12 hours underway, but satisfying.  Wandering Star did well. She rolled gently and evenly in the strong beam seas with a stable solid feeling of safety and control. Once we tracked down everything that was rolling around in drawers and lockers, even the refrigerator shelves needed attention, she was a very quiet ship in did and her skipper and mate will be very pleased to take her anywhere the horizon beacons.

It’s very late in the day when we finally find shelter in Fury Cove, a tight little, fully enclosed anchorage were several other power boats have also taken shelter for the night.

It is here we meet Phil and Sue with sled dog Taq who are canoeing across Canada. Starting in Victoria in March they have just made it this far in their three year odyssey.

Quickly a pot luck is organized aboard Dreamweaver to warm up and feed these kindred adventurers, soon even Taq and all are enjoying the celebration of new friends and our mutual fascination for life on the water.

Weather: cloudy, cool.  Wind: NW 8-15, Bar: 1015 falling.

Engine Hours: 109.01   Fuel on Board: 609   Total used: 296.

Weather taking a turn for the worst but we must push on towards Queen Charlotte Sound. Today is are first venture into Johnstone Straits, with a huge ebb running in our direction…a great ride with the boat hitting just over 13 knots and riding like a run away surf board.  By 10AM the ebb has run its course and it is time to hide out in Port Hardy Bay (which is neither a port of hardly a bay) till the afternoon tide turn back to favorable.

After much debate and weather study, the group decides to push on using a narrow back channel called Chatham and find an overnight anchorage further up Knight Channel. Anchor back up by 3:30 and up the channel to hit the narrow, shallow pass just at slack water.  Once through we turn to Port in Knight for several mile, around Village Island, and into Native cove. We bury the Rocna in sand in 23’ of water with 150’ of scope. Once secure, off we go with K&D for a dinghy trip to the abandon native village, cocktail in hand. Shallow water keeps us off shore but it is still worth the trip just to feel closer to the spirit of this unique toehold on man in a very primitive land.

It’s already 8:30, still broad daylight, but a tired crew decides to have a quiet dinner and early night – tomorrow it off at 6 AM to try for position and a possible assault on Queen Charlotte Straits.

Today’s run was 62 NM using 23 gallons of fuel in 9 hours of running time.

502364/1252268

Weather:  warm and sunny.       Wind: W 4 knts.  Bar: 1017

Engine Hours: 100.5  Fuel OB: 627 gal.  Today’s run: 45 nm.

Weighed anchor before the 5:32 sunrise and headed for the North Passage using Lewis and Calm Channels.  We hit our slack water right on time at 0959 and pass through the treacherous Dent Rapids, know for “Devils Hole” whirlpool, with hardly a ripple. Wind was gusting to 25 knts as we made the turn into the rapids as well.

Lots of current though to kept both the helmsmen and the autopilot very busy most of the day. We pass our first large Log Boom, hundreds of logs held together with cable and pulled by a huge tug this afternoon on its way to the papermill. We had the opportunity to hit Green point rapids later at 4pm too but the lack of good close anchorages on the other side make it an easy decision to pull out and take the afternoon off.

The small, family run Blind Channel Resort was just up the channel and soon we are the only boat tied to their docks. Still hard to get used to the idea of not having to line up for dock/mooring anchor space as we did all our boating days in So Cal. We are still a few weeks ahead of the summer crowds up here as the place does get busy.

Laundry, water, power, and some ships chores while away the afternoon followed by a salmon feast on board with D&K… early to bed again as 6 am departed is needed to capture the most favorable current down to Johnson Straits tomorrow.

530851/1244048

Weather: sunny, clear.  Wind: 390 4 knts.  Bar: 1026

Engine Hours: 99.4   Fuel on Board:  231 Today’s run: 12 nm

Slept in for awhile this morning after the celebration last night.  Pulled the anchor on board at 11:00 for the short, 2 hour run to the other side on the sound.  Our choice of coves for tonight is set deep in a rock protected approach and a narrow channel that leads into a nice quiet little bay, just right for our two boats. 

We towed our dinghy over so it is ready to go ashore for the afternoon hike.  I decide to stay on board to finish the last connection to the watermaker. It seems the builders put a hidden “T” in the system with an undiscovered loose end that leaked whenever I made water.  Our friends with the Nordhavn, Peter & Sue (from Chatterbox falls) anchored out at the end on our bay so we connected again to discuss strategy for riding Dent Rapids.

All hands in bed early in respect for the 5:30 departure in the morning.

500260/1244534

Weather: sunny, warm.  Wind: E 6 knts. Bar: 1024  Sea: calm

Engine Hrs: 95.1  Miles: 440     Fuel on Board: 641 gallons.

A nice run in the warm sunshine across the Straits and into the Sound with a quick pause in Lund where some new friends have a cabin and boat dock.  Grace Harbor is amazing! Best of all, no one else is here in an anchorage that is know for its summer popularity.

We set the hook by 3:30 and launch our speedy tender from the flybridge for a quick roar around after dropping off the crab trap in a likely spot, the deepest part of the bay. Cruising around the bay we meet some kids on a high school outward bound packi trip taking a swim in the 50 degree water…just a bit too cold to even look like fun.

It’s Mother’s Day so a gala pot luck dinner in planned on Dreamweaver featuring my now famous Port wine tart cherry reduction sauce over peppercorn steaks. Much wine, champagne etc rounds out the evening.

Todays Distance: 25.8 in 4.1 hours using 9.8 gallons of our 641.Total miles to date: 480.6

Engine Notes:  at 33-50 %  Load using 3.5

Load  Oil Pressure:  47.5  Temperature: 172 F

Manifold temp: 64 F     Pressure: 2.9 to 4.6

Gear Temp: 114 F        Pressure: 357     

Weather: sunny, clear.     Wind: calm.  Bar:1016

Engine Hours:   86.2     Fuel on board:   Distance: 55/399

Off the park dock at 0900 after saying goodbye to our new friends on Ploada, Peter & Su from Darango, Colorado on a Nordhavn 43. Once again we must cross the Malibu Rapids at slack water, this morning it is at 10AM.  While not he most dangerous rapids we will encounter, it still gets ripping up to 9 knots (not good for a boat that goes 10 knots) if you hit it at the wrong time. 

The long trip down the fjord was beautiful if uneventful.  Wind piped up a bit so 7 knots was a push to maintain.  Jo and I have found that standing hour and a half watches at the wheel seems to work best for us. This leaves enough time for the off watch person to get really into a project or just take a nap.

It’s 5:30 pm by the time we get into the tiny harbor of Sturt and tie up. The local boat club provides visitors with plenty of dock space and fresh water for a nominal fifty cents a foot. While there is no town as such, a short walk past modest homes and up the hill to the hotel finds you in a real friendly locals pub in a few minutes. Beer is good, dark and cold – chicken wings were not bad either.

A late dinner followed by a quiet night on board is spent watching direct TV (which decided to work again after we thought we lost it for good due to our high latitude). 

Weather: beautiful! sunny, clear,  Wind: calm, Bar:1020

Engine Hours: 7.2/78.4  Fuel Used: 17.4/199

Up anchor at 6 AM for the long ride to Princess Louise Inlet and to arrive at the slack water to cross the Malibu Rapids at the entrance. Some of the most spectacular scenery yet – snow capped mountains, deep fjords, and steep, tree covered, rock walls on both sides of the entire waterway.

We arrive just slightly ahead of slack water but are able to proceed through the narrow passage with only moderate turbelance – just enough to let you know you wouldn’t want to do this when the current is if full flow. Once inside the PL Inlet, the still rudded beauty really sets in close as you make your way to the head of the bay and Chatterbox Falls.  The Pards Service has been nice enough to provide a 900’ dock for we passage makers and soon we are greeted by most as they help us secure to the float.

It took just over seven hours to make the trip so an afternoon of hiking and relaxing are in order followed by dinner with D & K on Board WS.

Nautical Miles on WS to date: 399.1

Weather: sunny, Wind: SW 10, Bar: 1019

Sea: 1’ww, Engine Hours: 73.0, Fuel Used: 170

First stop this morning is the fuel dock to top off the tanks before heading north. We take on 700 liters (185 US gallons) giving us a total on board of just over 700 gallons.

The 44 nautical miles to Pender Harbor huge the eastern shore of the mainland most of the way passing many islands and tugs towing huge log booms. Visibility in great so Vancouver Island is in plain sight off to the west all day. Dottie and Ken have been working their way up from the Gulf Islands and both boats will be together again tonight in Garden Bay, a marine park inside Pender Harbor.

We drop the hook in 32 feet of water tucked in behind a rocky point. Seattle YC and RVYC both have outstations here but guests are not invited. We pick up D & K, drinks in hand,  for a quick dinghy trip further up the channel and then ashore to the local market for more beer and few none essentials. Evening was quiet aboard as Direct TV finally lost its signal and an early morning departure is anticipated.

Spending a few days in the big city enjoying the last vestiges of civilization…walking and riding the bikes to stores,  restaurants, Starbucks Chi Tea lattes, and Granville Island.

We move WS over to the False Creek side of the city to be closer to the action on Sunday, guests of the False Creek Yacht Club. Only one problem, the guest dock in under the Granville bridge, home to 100’s of nesting Cormorants. The bird poop bath WS endured was shocking!  

It blew 30 knots up the creek all night adding to the spray effect so needless to say, we moved over to Fisherman’s wharf at first opportunity for much needed day of washing her down from top to bottom.

We spent several days enjoying the shops and pubs of Granville Island, taking long walks each day  with the locals as everyone enjoyed the beautiful spring weather.