Three days in Skagway and the end of Leg II.

7/20 to 7/22  

Secure in Skagway

Despite the rain we make the best of our few days in Skagway.  We talk walks, work on this website posting, and take it easy.  Saturday, for a change of pace, we take the old narrow gauge, White Pass & Yukon train from here up through the mountains with a picnic on board. The train follows the same notorious route used by the early prospectors on foot so many years ago as they carried tons of gear by hand to the gold fields beyond. It was not until the rush was well over that the railway was built to connect Skagway with Whitehorse and beyond.

In the evening, it’s off to the music hall for  “The Days of “98 Review” starring Soapy Smith and the girls followed by a pub crawl back up Main Street finishing up at the infamous Red Onion Bordello for a night cap… then it’s back to Wandering Star.  Forecast says we may catch a weather break tomorrow for the 50+miles back up the Lynn Canal to Bridget Cove anchorage on our way back to Auke Bay , Juneau and the beginning of leg III.

To be continued…

Haines to Skagway

7/19 Thursday  

Latitude: 59:26.93 N Longitude: 135.26.70 W
Weather: clear, sunny   Wind: 180 0   20kts.  Barometer: 1003
Engine Hours: 295 Fuel on Board:  543
Trip Distance/Total: 14/1799

Made it! Just 1,799 boat miles from Seattle and we are here in Skagway at last, our most northern port in Alaska.  Plenty of adventures left, many more ports yet to visit on the trip back, and a long way from Mexico in the Fall but here we are for now at the upper end of the Inside Passage.

It was a short morning ride over from Haines. We left early before the promised high winds from the south could kick up the waters of the northern Lynn Canal. The “small boat” harbor is just that, tucked in behind the huge cruise ship docks, with today’s supply of four mammoth ships and thousands of passengers already in place.

We call Dylan, the dock master, on the VHF and he assigns us to an inside slip next to the main gangway. He is there to greet us and take a line as we come in too. This proves to be a fun location because of a steady stream of cruise ship passengers that use the ramp next to us to board day excursions and ferries for their next adventure. Great people watching and fun to hear comments about WS without the passerby knowing we are on board. Our home port of Key West really gets comments too.

By 10 AM we are on our walk around town with the multitudes, have lunch in the new Skagway brew pub that just opened, and then take the trail out of town to Reid Falls and the old miner’s cemetery.  Most people resting there seemed to have died in 1899, the year of a big meningitis epidemic.  Old Soapy Smith, a Skagway gold rush criminal kingpin, and Frank Reid, the good citizen who shot him in a blazing gunfight but died 12 days later died from being shot in the groin by Soapy, are buried close by. Frank with a tall granite hero’s tombstone and Soapy with carved piece of scrap wood. Skagway has been mostly quiet ever since.

Heading back to WS in the afternoon, the winds have really picked up with gusts to over 30 knots and we are glad to have her securely in place. A celebration arrival dinner and movie on board for tonight and the end of this special day.

Haines, Alaska

7/18 Wednesday  

Blue skies!  Light rain in the morning quickly clears and we have the 2nd sunny day this month!  We waste no time in getting a rental car and set off to see the sights and find some bears. The national eagle preserve is just north of town where some 4,000 Bald Eagles spend the winter…only one here today though. We also see several glaciers, spectacular waterfalls, the old Fort Seward, the tiny Haines Brewery which makes the historic Spruce Tip Ale (brewed by Vancouver and his crew in 1700’s), lakes, rivers and streams, but no bears.

This is one of our favorite towns of the trip so far. A very livable place if you don’t mind 8 months of winter isolation. Very much like the town of “Sicily” depicted in Northern Exposure and a moose walking down the street would not raise an eyebrow. People are warm and friendly, lots of characters to make it interesting but big enough for a decent grocery store, health food shop, heated public swimming pool, hardware store (sells coffins too) and a couple of coffee shop hang outs for the locals.  With only one cruise ship a week, tourist are not always underfoot either.

Late afternoon is back on board for rest and chores then out for one last bear hunt before turning in the car and walking back by way of the Pioneer Bar to WS.  Nice dinner on board and continuation of our film fest before turning in after a beautiful day.

Boat Harbor to Haines

7/17 Tuesday  

Latitude: 59:13:94 N Longitude: 135:26.32 W

Weather: rain   Wind: 290 0   8 kts.  Barometer:1014

Engine Hours: 289         Fuel on Board: 568

Trip Distance/Total: 39/1786

It is 4:00 AM and barely light enough to see. A layer of fog sits just on the water. And it is pouring rain.  We must depart before 5:00 to clear the shallow water in the entrance of our beautiful lagoon.  Some of our companion fishing boats are already laying their nets while others, up all night, are still fast asleep as we creep across the bay to the narrow entrance. A few precise turns and we are out into the deep water of the Lynn Canal and on our way to Haines.

Rain continues to fall most of the day and the trip, while early, is still eventful with fog, and logs to dodge again, the first in quantity since we left BC.  Almost ran over a sleeping humpback  too but the prop noise woke him about a 100 feet away and down he went into the deep canal. We never did get the 15 knot winds or 3 ft seas predicted by our 10:00AM arrival time.

The dockmaster Phil and his whole crew are down to meet us and manage to move boats to squeeze us in along the transit dock as we are too wide for the slips. Rent is just 30 cents a foot or a paltry $35 for two nights including power.  Town is just up the gangway so off we go to explore our new temporary home.

Dinner is out at the Lighthouse for fresh fish and evening is spent back on board watching the on going drama of 24’s second season.

Hoonah to Boat Harbor, Lynn Canal

7/16 Monday  

Latitude: 58:38.78 N Longitude: 135:09.33 W

Weather: rain    Wind: 180 0   10 kts.  Barometer: 1010

Engine Hours: 282  Fuel on Board: 581

Trip Distance/Total: 44/1747

Out of Hoonah Harbor in pouring rain, past Cannery Point just as the days cruise ship was pulling in and into Icy Straits in time to see three orcas and headed across to the beginning corner of Lynn Canal.  Wind blowing up to 20kts and beam sea rough as we passed the point.  Once we made the turn, the following seas and the wind at our backs made for a nice ride down the 30 miles to Boat Harbor.

This was the most difficult entrance yet. The opening impossible to see, even a quarter mile off shore, it was only 40′ wide and 20′ deep along the narrow winding channel into the bay.  Once inside, it is a bay worth all the anxiety. Completely protected from all directions and good holding ground make it a delightful refuge form the perils of the canal.

The only detraction was the 4 gill net boats inside with their nets spread out most everywhere. I don’t think they are allowed to do this in here but with no one to stop them, anything goes.  We picked the one section of the bay where they weren’t and dropped the anchor in 32′, back down and felt it grab the bottom. I sure like this new Rocna anchor.  With about 150 foot of chain out, we feel very secure for the night.

High tide is 3:29 AM with slack at 4: 32 so it will be early to bed and early up anchor for maximum depth at the shallow entrance.

Day at rest in Hoonah

7/15 Sunday  

Actually didn’t get much rest.  We decided to spend this beautiful day of sunshine (our first this month) at the dock.  A cruise ship was in at Cannery Point so knowing all of the shops will be open, off we went for the nice two mile hike.  Played cruise ship tourist the rest of the morning, had lunch on the cannery deck in the sunshine, then hiked back to the boat for laundry and cleanup duties.  Also got to finish some on going projects.

Big drama for the day was the fishing boat (a purse seiner) in front of us on the dock lost his big skiff off the back and it sunk right there in his slip. While aluminum, it was full of fuel and had a big caterpillar 300hp engine so was quite heavy. The poor owner spent the morning futilely trying to raise it with his boat hoist, had to give up because it was too heavy and fuel started to leak up to the surface.  He was a sad, dejected sight all afternoon trying to contain the spill with oil absorbing pads and Joy detergent until the barge with a proper crane could get there and raise the boat early evening.  Don’t know what that cost him but losing a day of prime fishing in a very short season was painful as well.

Quiet night on board with hors d’ouvres with wine on the back deck, fresh Cioppino for dinner, and the next hours of “24″ which is really good when you start at the beginning of the season so you know what is happening…something I never was able to do before.

Elfin Cove to Hoonah

7/14 Saturday 

Latitude: 58:06.49 N Longitude: 135:26.95 W

Weather: fog, overcast   Wind: 180 0   10 kts.  Barometer: 1016

Engine Hours: 278 Fuel on Board: 599

Trip Distance/Total: 37/1702

“Fog so thick you could hardly see the front of the boat.”  A heavy mantle of the white stuff covered Elfin Cove and all the surrounding landmarks so it will be an instrument departure and in fact the entire day was spent without seeing much of anything. It is eerie to see another boat suddenly appear out of the fog that, without radar, you would have had no clue to expect.

Once back at the dock in Hoonah, we hiked down to the store to provision then up to the Lodge at the other end of town for some chicken wings.  Nice evening on board watching “24″ 2nd season we borrowed from D&K.

Pelican to Elfin Cove

7/13 Friday  

Latitude: 58:11.88 N Longitude: 136:21.03 W

Weather: overcast some rain  Wind: 180 0   10 kts.  Barometer:1012

Engine Hours: 275 Fuel on Board:607

Trip Distance/Total: 19/1665

Leisurely morning at the dock.  D& K left early for Sitka so we are on our own for the next two weeks. We’ll miss them as they are great travel companions but we don’t want to go to Sitka twice at the expense on missing Skagway and Haines…places we’ve not seen before.  We’ll rendezvous again in Juneau when we pick up Heather and Ted and D&K leave to help get ready for Kim’s wedding in Big Bear.

After one last look around this very special village, we finally cast off to start the journey east around 11:00am to take advantage of the ebbing tide. This area is truly the last of the Alaskan frontier in the Southeast and we are thankful to have been able to spend a little time here before it too vanishes under the weight of cruise ships and tourists.

Back across the Cross Straits, as calm as a lake today, and soon we are tucked safely into Elfin Cove side-tied with the fishing fleet to the public dock. This is my favorite community so far with only 14 full time residents that make it here through the long winter. Once ashore, our first stop is up to Patti’s for some of her smoked coho and king salmon, then around the inner lagoon boardwalk to the tiny grocery store for some bananas that made it in on the morning plane. Weather has been so dodgy that other produce has been delayed for days but hopefully will make it before we leave tomorrow.

Afternoon on board reading and working on projects - I’m making a teak knife rack for the galley which should be up in a day or two.  Dinner and DVD’s tonight on board.

Elfin Cove to Pelican Cove

7/12 Thursday  

Latitude: 57:57.51 N Longitude: 136:14.05 W
Weather: rain   Wind:1800   10 kts.  Barometer:1012
Engine Hours:272  Fuel on Board: 616
Trip Distance/Total:  19/1646

Rain stopped just long enough for us to cast off from our side tie next to DW and head back out into the Cross Channel.  Today’s run is only 18 miles to the eastern most point of our visit to Alaska, Pelican Cove and the “world” renowned Rose’s Bar. This quaint fishing village is far up the Lisianski Strait about as remote as any place in South East Alaska. Few visitors make it this far West so the natives have it mostly to themselves most of the time.

The town wraps around where the curve of a mountain meets the sea with all residents connected by a long boardwalk at waters’ edge anchored by the cannery on one end and a river cascading down the mountain on the other. In between these bookends were all of the modest homes, a school, several cafes, boarding houses and Rose’s bar. Young Russian guys, imported to work in the fish processing plant hung around in small groups as well as the local kids out on summer holiday.

After few beers with the early crowd, we were ready to either pay a buck (our choice) or show our bare butts (Dottie & Kens) for the privilege of adding our boat names to the wall or ceiling of Rose’s. Then it was back to Dreamweaver for yet another sumptuous meal of fresh salmon and wine before heading over to WS for a good nights rest.

Walking back to our boat, Jo and I  stopped to enjoy the special effect of the fog blending with the water so perfectly that you could not tell where one stopped and the other began…truly a magic moment.

Bartlett Cove to Elfin Cove

7/11 Wednesday  

Latitude: 58:11.88 N Longitude: 136:21.03 W

Weather: rain none stop   Wind: 180 0   10 kts.  Barometer: 1017

Engine Hours: 268 Fuel on Board: 627

Trip Distance/Total: 24/1627

Awake to pouring rain. Dottie bravely went ashore in her dinghy and got our transit passes to exit the park, then its anchor up and we are away by 10:30. 

Today it is whales everywhere.  Just as we leave the park’s whale protection zone (naturally) we are surrounded by a huge pod of humpbacks too numerous to count, some as near as a 100-feet from our bow.  This is our best encounter with them so far as they are so close, we constantly have to alter course just to stay out of the way and it lasts for over an hour. 

As we timidly approach the south pass at Inian Islands, through the rocks we can see the Gulf of Alaska and the open sea beyond with the eight foot breaking waves promised on the morning weather much in evidence. We must transverse a mile of two of Cross Channel to get into Elfin Cove and with the ebbing current pushing us, we fly through the pass towards the oncoming surf.  Very exciting stuff but when you new to the area, something you could well do without.

Once safe in Elfin Cove (still pouring rain) the next challenge is an acute lack of space on the public dock. Rafting next to the already secure fishing boats is the only choice and we wait for Dreamweaver to secure to a likely one (it turned out broken down and waiting for parts) and raft alongside her as our boats match up side to side well.

Once secure, it is off in the rain to check out this very unique town without street or paths. Everyone is connected by elevated boardwalks…post office, store, one room school, docks, fish lodges, and homes are all interconnected. We pick up some groceries and stop at the Coho Bar & Grill (sounds much bigger than it is) before heading back to dry off, warm up the boat, cook up some spaghetti, and spend the evening watching a classic James Bond DVD.

Bartlett Cove, Glacier Bay

7/10 Tuesday  

Day at anchor.  Hiking ashore five miles out to the river and back. Bus to “town” for lunch, light provisioning and outrageously expensive taxis ride back to WS. Brent & Bonnie decided to fly to Juneau this afternoon in search of better weather and planned helicopter sightseeing with friends.  Reading and resting on board. Dinner for two at the Glacier Bay Lodge, followed by a woman ranger’s wonderful lecture on man’s place in the wilderness of Glacier Bay. She was a philosophy major at University of Chicago and gave the most unusual perspective - most rangers are geologists or biologists.

Reid Inlet to Bartlett Cove

7/9 Monday  

 
Margerie Calving in Glacier Bay

Latitude: 58:27.36 N   Longitude: 135:53.32 W

Weather: rain Wind: 180 0   10 kts.  Barometer: 1018

Engine Hours: 261 Fuel on Board: 645

Trip Distance/Total:  44/1603

Being nothing if not flexible, we had to change our plans for a day for exploring John Hopkins Glacier because of the crummy weather.  So with dingy in tow, we headed back to Bartlett Cove to anchor for the night.  Depending on the weather, we may stay another day to do some provisioning and hiking.

On the way back towards the entrance to Glacier Bay we did stop in at Blue Mouse anchorage just to check it out and it is quite nice…a big round bay with good anchor areas in about 30-40 feet.  There is a floating outpost here tucked into a small bight for the park service rangers.

Rain continued all day so we just stayed on board for the afternoon getting ready for company as K&D decided to join us with guests Brent & Bonnie for dinner.  Evening plans include a visit ashore for the ranger talk, weather permitting.   Once again we got into the wine and didn’t make it ashore…instead D&K’s friend from Pt. Townsend, who lives and works here all summer, rowed out to join us for brandy and dessert.

Sandy Cove to Reid Inlet, Glacier Bay

7/8 Sunday  

Latitude: 58:51.73 N  Longitude: 136:41.29 W

Weather: lt rain becoming sunny  Wind: 180 0   15 kts.  Barometer: 1015

Engine Hours: 253  Fuel on Board: 669

Trip Distance/Total: 53/1558

What started out as another rainy day became beautiful by the time we got to today’s destination, Margerie Glacier at the end of Tarr Inlet.  It is also the end of the USA in this section of SE Alaska as the international boarder with Canada crosses the side of Margerie.  It took us till early afternoon to wind our way up the fjords then cross several miles of floating icebergs and berglets to our destination.

We were able to get WS up to the safety minimum ½ mile off the face.  This is the most actively calving glacier in the entire area and she did not disappoint us today. Thousands of tons of ice cracked off and fell into the sea as Jo & I sat on the flybridge and ate popcorn in the warm sunshine. Many great photos were taken (be sure to see our album) and we spent several hours enjoying the show.

The day’s adventure was not yet to end.  Once back down channel and safely anchored for the night in Reid Inlet.  Both crews manned the dinghies for a cold, wet ride up the mile and half to the face of Reid Glacier. Here we were able to actually go ashore and walk up to the 20 story tall wall of ice for photos.

Back on board to pick up our contribution to the group dinner then back to DW for a great meal of fresh halibut with mango chutney sauce etc. etc, and a nice evening of social intercourse. This is a wind potential anchorage but by the time for lights out (it’s still light outside of course), it died completely and a quiet night seemed assured.

Hoonah Village to Bartlett Cove, Glacier Bay

7/7 Saturday  

Latitude: 58:27.36 N Longitude: 135:53.32 W

Weather: cloudy becoming sunny  Wind: 200 0  5-15 kts.  Barometer:1021

Engine Hours: 245 Fuel on Board: 709

Trip Distance/Total: 52/1505

The big day at last…after years of planning and months of traveling, today is the day Jo and I return to Glacier Bay.  Been here before in a cruise ship, 28 years ago and promised ourselves then that someday we would return on our own bottom (boat) and here we are at last.

We leave Hoonah Harbor early, 6AM for the 20+ mile drive across Icy Straits. Our pod of whales were hanging out and performing again just off the last point before we cross the channel.  As we enter Glacier Bay, we call the ranger station for clearance to come in and proceed directly to their float in Bartlett Cove for mandatory check in, chart briefing and lots of rules.  With the Government involved, it is amazing of the things they think of to prohibit. My favorite is “no picking up goat hair without prior authorization.”

Both crews have a nice lunch in the Glacier Lodge close by and then depart for our first nights stop in Sandy Cove…about 20 miles up the East side of the bay.  Heading north we are to stay a mile off shore so we don’t bother the whales and must avoid getting too close to seals, otter, and nesting birds too.

Wandering Star, being slightly faster then Dreamweaver, arrives first to a completely empty anchorage and picks a spot near the middle in 50′ to set the hook. DW follows in about an hour and picks a spot just inside us.  This area is known as bear country so all on board both boats keep an eye on shore for the furry beasts.

It was decided to take it easy tonight after last night’s debauchery so we’ll have a quiet dinner for two tonight late after we do some chores and make some more fresh water. 

Auke Bay to Hoonah Village

7/6 Friday  

Latitude: 56:06.67 N Longitude: 135:27.13 W

Weather: overcast - rain  Wind: 180 0   10 kts.  Barometer: 1020

Engine Hours: 239  Fuel on Board: 729

Trip Distance/Total: 42/1453

Thar she blows…might be the title for today’s passage. Nine humpbacks were found playing and feeding off Point Couverden at the beginning of Icy Strait.  When they would all spout in a row it looked like a steam calliope. We stopped to try and get some photos as close as 100 yds from the pod but the problem is they usually disappear before the slow shutter on a digital camera can respond. Taking lots of pictures usually gets you a few good shots and lots of fun trying.

We’re in our assigned slip at the Tlingit Village of Hoonah early enough for a walk in the rain to “The Office,” a local bar named in Esquire as one of the 10 most authentic little, bars in America…a title they treasure. After a few rounds of Alaskan Amber with the very friendly locals, we head over to the trading post and marine store to check out what’s available then back on board WS as it really starts to rain. 

Cocktails are on WS tonight followed by a fresh salmon dinner on Dreamweaver with the rest of the crew.

Juneau to Auke Bay

7/5 Thursday  

Latitude: 58:22.94 N Longitude: 134:39.23 W

Weather: rain, cooler   Wind: 180 0   15 kts.  Barometer: 1020

Engine Hours: 234 Fuel on Board: 253 + 479=729

Trip Distance/Total:  33/1411

Started this cold, rainy morning doing battle with the Bill at the National Parks Dept who controls entry permits to Glacier Bay.  Supposedly 7 permits were handed out within about 3 minutes of the 7AM phone line opening which is physically impossible. Four of us frantically dialing our cell phones got one call through and Bill gave up one permit for Dreamweaver but had none left for WS.  The system has major flaws which makes it very hard to plan ahead since we were able to somehow get a mysterious “cancellation” permit later in the morning so WS is finally clear to go with DW into GB on Saturday.

Next, we had to negotiate WS out of the tight side-tie in Harris Marina with the falling tide near bottom. Ordinarily this is not a problem but lots of debris collects in the tightly enclosed marina making use of the thrusters difficult and dangerous. With the help of Ken and his dinghy in the rain, WS was able to gingerly turn around in place and head out into the clear waters of the channel.

Juneau is our planned fuel stop for this Leg so finding the fuel dock in a midst the five cruise ships was the next challenge.  Once found and clear of fishing boats we were able to put on 476 gallons of this strange “green” colored diesel fuel (its usually red) at a surprisingly cheap for up here $2.56/gallon…about $1,300 (we paid more in Vancouver and Seattle).  While this may sound like a lot of $$ it is really not bad if you think of it as moving your home and car (dinghy) over 1,000 miles for six weeks from one beautiful waterfront location to the next.

With our chores accomplished, WS is finally ready to run back down the Gastineau Channel and up the Stephens Passage to Auke Bay which is really a suburb at the northern end of Juneau. The 33 miles go quickly and we are approaching the breakwater by 4pm.  The trick now is to find an open side-tie as the harbormaster here has lost all control and gill net fishing boats have taken over the entire waterfront. 

Thanks to new friends and fellow Selener’s Earl & Helen on Kinship, we are able to side tie next to their 47′ Selene and are soon secure with engine off.  Other Selene friends, Stu & Carol on Prime Time II, offer their side to DW so they are taken care of too.  Other friends, Johnny and Patti (Beyond, a Selene 43 like WS), and Dick & Stephanie (R Turn, a Selene 47) are here too and we are all soon having cocktails on R Turn.

Friends Bonnie & Brent are joining Dreamweaver tonight for the next weeks cruising so we just have time to clean up WS and take a quick look around the area before welcoming them on board DW. A late bowl of soup and it’s off to bed for the crew of WS after this most eventful day.

Fourth of July in Juneau

7/4 Wednesday   

Big day in town…everyone from near and far shows up for the biggest homemade parade we’ve ever seen. It seems one half the town lines the route while the other half is actually in the parade with all manner of float, costumes or cause represented. It was great fun and one of the most hilarious parades we’ve ever seen. Lunch is at the Hanger, our new favorite bar then shopping with the thousands of cruise ship people (4 huge ships in that day) for a couple of hours.  Ken and I manage to find a couple of stools at the Red Dog for an hour once the shopping wears thin.

After cleaning up and naps, Jo & I are back downtown a great dinner at the Twisted Fish as all of the cruise ships are pulling away from the docks.  A nightcap at the Hanger and back aboard after one of the nicest 4ths in recent memory.

Taku Bay  to Juneau

7/3 Tuesday  

Tracy Arm Ice

Latitude:  58:18.01 N Longitude: 134:25.76 WWeather: Overcast  Wind: 44 0   4 kts.  Barometer: 1015

Engine Hours: 231 Fuel on Board: 264

Trip Distance/Total: 20/1378

Great morning for the final run to Juneau. Off the dock by 0700 and headed north up the channel into both wind and current.  With only 20 miles to go, we gladly sacrifice some fuel economy for a little more speed and average 8 knots over the ground most of the way. 

The cruise ships are already visible as we enter Gastineau Channel for the final few miles to the city.  We call the harbormaster as we pass under the Douglas Bridge and downtown and are assigned a space on the transit dock in Harris Harbor. Tide is out so it is a squeeze for us between the dock and the breakwater but we manage it only to find our space is taken by an unknown sailboat. Now there is no place to turn WS so we back her up using the thrusters to steer her, sort of  a reverse U-turn to another dock and wait for fellow cruisers on our dock to move boats around to made us fit. Then it’s back around again to our assigned space.  We parallel park WS to a side tie with about 3-foot on either end to spare.

As soon as we are secure, it’s off the harbormaster office to pay and then straight downtown to explore and see what has changed in Juneau since Jo & I were last here 28 years ago.  Next it’s off to the Alaskan Brewery for their very wet tour (free beer), a quick stop at Costco, and back for naps. Later we head south past town to the Thane Oar House for a very casual/local style salmon bake dinner via their courtesy van. Back on the docks after dinner, we took a long walk over to Douglas (town across the channel) and visited with friends on the dock. Fourth of July fireworks in Juneau are done at midnight on the third because of the short hours of darkness.  By the time it starts it is pouring rain so we watch from WS just before turning in for the night.

Tracy Arm Cove to Taku Harbor

7/2  Monday   

Latitude:57:48.50  N  Longitude: 133:38.11 W

Weather: partly cloudy  Wind: 305 0   8 kts.  Barometer: 1013

Engine Hours: 221  Fuel on Board: 292

Trip Distance/Total: 64/1357

Ice Adventure would be a good title for today’s voyage. 

We took WS 20+ miles up the Tracy Arm to where the Sawyer Glacier calves icebergs directly into the sea. Ice was everywhere. Some were shaped like ice sculptures of whales, boats, birds and most anything else your imagination allowed, it soon became a game to name the berg. Ice colors ranged from crystal clear to the deepest, iridescent blue of a Caribbean bay and the size ranged from ice cube to chunks twice as big as Wandering Star.

As we proceeded up channel, the path through the ice became torturous with constant spins of the wheel from virtually lock to lock.  WS got to within a couple of miles of the end of the inlet and the forward edge of the glacier itself. Once we were as far we could safely go…literally surrounded by ice so thick there was no where else to move but to turn around and head back down the channel to Stephens Passage.

As we head out, the ice thins dramatically almost immediately with the ebbing tide. Two families of Orcas swim beside us for part of the journey. Once over the shoal entrance, we turn to starboard up the passage for the 20 mile run to Taku Harbor. The late afternoon timing is less than ideal as we are moving against the current but it would be good to get as close to Juneau as possible.  Taku Harbor was once the site of a yet another cannery but only sports a nice public dock now, a forestry cabin and a couple of abandoned building from the old days.

Our late arrival leaves only time for dinner, a quick walk, and a review of today’s photos of whales and ice before turning in for a well deserved but brief rest.  Tomorrow it’s off to Juneau!

Petersburg to Tracy Arm Cove

7/1 Sunday  

Latitude: 57:48.5 N Longitude: 133:38.11 W

Weather: cloudy  Wind: 1800  9 kts.  Barometer: 1016

Engine Hours: 211  Fuel on Board:  292

Trip Distance/Total:  70/1294

Big water - long distance was the order of the day for the run to Tracy Arm. Lots of  whales along the way made the trip most enjoyable. WS is running great and the 70 miles pass by easily with Jo and I still doing our 1½ hour watches.  Plenty of personal time for reading, snoozing or boat chores.

Tracy Arm is famous for its Sawyer Glaciers that calf into the sea water.  At the entrance, we see the first of what I am sure will be many icebergs of the trip.  Care must be taken crossing a shoal as you enter but it is well marked and soon we are tucked into Tracy Arm Cove - the favorite anchorage of the area. 

We set the hook in 60′ right in the center with several other boats arriving later to keep us company.  A late BBQ Dinner and DVD about Alaska we bought in Petersburg finish off the evening.

In Port at Petersburg.

6/30 Saturday   

The Crew at Beachcombers

Rain in the morning did not stop us from doing some early dinghy fishing with Ken and John (John caught the only Halibut), continuing to explore town, and we especially enjoyed the small museum with a personal tour conducted by the curator. The film on the history of Petersburg was well worth the time too.

After lunch at the Northern Lights, it back to WS as our friends and fellow crew this past week, John and Laura must catch the afternoon flight to Ketchikan and then home to Big Bear tomorrow. It’s been great fun having them on board!

John & Laura’s last night 

St John’s Harbor to Petersburg

6/29 Friday  

Latitude: 56:48.84  N  Longitude:  132:57.67  W

Weather: rain, cooler      Wind:  180 deg. 15 kts.

Engine Hours:    207       Fuel Used: 8/552

Distance Traveled: 24/1223

Up early to a very rainy morning. The first break has the crew scrambling to pick up the still empty crab trap and reload the dingy onto the fly bridge for the day’s journey.

Much has been written about the narrow passage that leads to Petersburg.  Even the cruise ships that seem to turn up everywhere else can’t make it up this shallow, winding waterway that is the only way from Wrangell to Petersburg.  Timing again is important as the current can play havoc with a slow moving trawler that tries to push against the ebbing tide.

WS is at the entrance to the narrows at 10am and has an easy time navigating the 50 plus buoys and dayboards thanks mostly to our experience with the Eastern US waterways. The scenery is spectacular!  Twenty miles of mountains, eagles, and shoreline make for a picture perfect day of boating.

Once we arrive in Petersburg, a call to the friendly Harbormaster nets us a slip in the North Harbor among a very active and working fishing fleet.  Three working canneries are in sight over the bow from a new slip and town is just at the end of the gangway surrounded by some of the hard working fishing boats common to the area.

Unlike other Alaskan towns that have prostituted themselves to the cruise ships, Petersburg thrives on providing salmon and halibut to the lower 48. Perhaps it was the Norwegian heritage of independence and frugalness that prompted the town to buy out the outside owned canneries long ago by selling shares to the fisherman and the local families thereby controlling Petersburg’s own destiny. Today, the canneries are mostly manned all summer by imported college kids attracted to the good pay for the hard work. 

Our usual quest for the oldest, quirkiest local’s pub began as soon as we are tied up. Our hunt was soon rewarded with Kito’s Cave, an Alaskan classic known for its barroom brawls, Mexican nachos, and lively dance music. The main street is short and interesting. There are 2 banks, 2 hardware stores, 2 bars, 3 gift shops and 2 groceries in the four blocks all thriving on competition and not one franchise fast food anywhere in sight.

The Beachcomber Inn, the best restaurant around, offers a free shuttle service right from our dock so evening finds both crews enjoying some of the freshest red and white salmon you can get anywhere. It was excellent!

Wrangell to St. Johns Harbor, Zarombo Island

6/28 Thursday

Latitude: 56:26 N  Longitude: 132:57.7 W

Weather: clear, sunny, warm   Wind: 200 0   6-10 kts.  Barometer:1012

Engine Hours: 204         Fuel on Board: 338

Trip Distance/Total:  21/1199

A beautiful day to leave Wrangell and the warmest day we have had since arriving in the Northwest. Hopefully summer is finally here! 

Today’s journey is short, just a quick 20 mile hop down the channel to an anchorage directly across from the opening to the famous Wrangell Narrows and tomorrows passage to Petersburg.  But today is for playing in the dinghy, hiking ashore in the National Park on Zarembo Island, fishing, crabbing and the inevitable party to follow.

Crabbing has been a challenge as my small trap does not seem to work. In fact, we have done better using a round loop of copper with a net and bait in the center just yanking it up every few minutes and sorting out the crabs.  We caught 2 keepers this way and served them up with another D&K caught as the first course for the evening dinner.

The sun was out all day (and evening), the only negative of the anchorage being the biting deer fly’s that kept us swatting all afternoon. In the evening, they suddenly disappeared only to be replaced by the ravenous mosquitoes.  

Evening again found us feasting on the bounty of the sea and playing rummy cube till lights out.

Fools Bay to Wrangle

6/27 Wednesday

Latitude: 56:28.13 N Longitude: 132:23.63 W

Weather: steady rain   Wind: 200 0   10 kts.  Barometer: 1017

Engine Hours: 198   Fuel on Board: 352

Trip Distance/Total: 38/1179

Woke to serious rain this morning though not as cold as most. Big old grizzly bear came down to the meadow behind the boat on his morning rounds of finding breakfast - very neat to see one so close from the safety of WS.

Anchor up at 0930 for the cruise to Wrangell. All hands anxious for the bright lights of the “big” city so we headed straight there and were tied along side the fish & game dock center harbor by 2:30 in the afternoon.  Still raining but did not want to waste any of our time in port so all dawned rail gear and set off to find the harbor master, a store and the local tackle shop immediately.  Dock fees were only $13 / night (30 cents a foot) one of the best bargains of the trip thus far.

Wrangell is a working town with canneries, a lumber mill and serious fishing  the only things that keeps the doors open. Few cruise ships ever stop and then it’s only to see the bears in the city dump, not something that draws a lot of tourists. Other than that there is not much in the way of excitement to offer visitors.

Shopping complete, the crew wound up at the Totem Bar, the local’s favorite rainy-day  hangout, for beer and chicken wings till the rain finally stopped. Back on board we were guests of D&K for what only could be called an Alaskan feast. Salmon, fresh shrimp, and the crab just caught in Fools Bay made for a fantastic night of friends, seafood and wine. 

Meyer’s Chuck to Anon Bay/Fools Bay

6/26 Tuesday  

Latitude: 56:10 N Longitude: 131:53 W

Weather: overcast  Wind: 274 0  11 kts.  Barometer: 1020

Engine Hours: 192  Fuel on Board: 371

Trip Distance/Total: 42/1141

Busy day of cruising the best of Alaska.  From Meyer’s Chuck, we head east up Ernest Sound…destination - the bear observatory at Anan Bay.  Along the way we pass a large humpback whale going the other way close to our starboard beam.  The family of Orcas, mom, dad, and baby, were worth a small detour into Santa Anna Bay and we were able to follow them as they swam close to shore leaving the Bay to head north along with us.

Once anchored in Anan Bay, the crew hitched a ride with K&D to the trail head leading to a bear feeding area home to some 50-60 brown and black bears. I chose to stay on board since the bay was quite shallow and not a comfortable place to leave WS for a couple of hours with a falling tide.

 The salmon have just started to run but only one black bear, the ranger had named “Boboli,” chose to come out to be watched and photographed.  Six seals were seen feeding alone the shore as well.

It’s late in the day when we up anchor and head over the couple of miles to Fools Bay, a much better place to spend the night that Anan. We anchor just short of a 50 foot drop off in the bottom and settle into about 20 feet of water.  Drop the crab trap but have more luck catching some sort of bottom fish with a hand line.

Dinner and a movie on board before we call it a night and switch on the anchor light.

Latitude: 55:44.36 N Longitude: 132:15.5 W
Weather: overcast   Wind: 1900 12kts.  Barometer: 1018
Engine Hours: 188        Fuel on Board: 387
Trip Distance/Total: 32/1098

Good to be Back!  After a three week break that took our crew by air to Seattle, car to Las Vegas via Ventura for Mom’s 90th birthday and back to Big Bear for H & T’s send off party.  Then it was United to Hawaii for Heather’s wedding to Ted on the beach at North Shore and back to Ketchikan to Wandering Star.

It only took us a few hours to get right back in the swing of provisioning, plotting courses, cleaning and getting ready for company.  Great friends John and Laura Bulrice will joining for the next week as we head to Wrangell and Petersburg.
 
Weather hasn’t changed much in a month – still in the early 50’s, overcast, and rain always in the forecast. Crossing the straits was a bit rougher than we like as the wind was blowing up waves of about 3 feet heading up to Meyer’s Chuck.  Visibility was good with no sign of the fog that we hear will increase as the water warms up later in the summer.
 
Notably, we did spot of first couple of humpback whales playing at 55:32/132:10. Impressively, one breached over on its back while the other seemed to applaud by smacking the water with its fluke. Very exciting stuff!
 
Meyer’s Chuck (“chuck” is Indian for water surrounded by land) is an old hippy community of about a dozen homes around a very small but beautiful bay. The old store has fallen into ruins but a small art galley is open by appointment along the path to the beach. A large, modern public steel dock makes it a great place to dock overnight for the visiting boater. 
 
Met a Christian missionary boat “Coastal Messenger” on the dock that spends the summer visiting and preaching to the locals up and down the Pacific Northwest all the way to Victoria.  Also met Bob and Pat on a Nordic Tug from San Francisco. Lots in common with these folks; former Ventura Yacht Clubbers,  Pat’s brother lives in Big Bear, and they are and planning to do the Great Circle next year.
 
After our nice hike to the beach, we all enjoy happy hour and BBQ dinner on board WS with D&K joining us for the fun evening.