Leg V Ensenada to La Paz 11/08 to 11/19
Muertos Bay to La Paz
11/19 Monday
Latitude: 24:13.99 N Longitude: 110:18.84 W
Weather: sunny Wind: 1350 5 kts. Barometer: 1014
Engine Hours: 832 Fuel on Board: 441 - 419 at La Paz
Trip Distance/Total: 51/5285
Made it! All 50 boats made it to La Paz in good condition by 4 PM today. The final run was a short 51-miles under bright blue skies and calm seas. Our homeport for the next week will be Costa Baja Resort Marina just 10 miles outside town. It is a beautiful, new marina with all of the services…TV, internet, laundry, restaurants, pools, bars etc and all brand new slips in a well protected basin.
After a few days of farewell parties followed by a fleet Thanksgiving dinner for those remaining, the FUBAR is officially over and all the boats will go their separate ways - us included. It’s sad to leave so many new friends but the reality of this lifestyle is that we will all cross wakes many more times in the many harbors, bays, and marinas we all love to visit.
Thanksgiving Dinner
Our plans, after a week of boat work and reorganizing, will be to head north along the east coast of Baja into the Sea of Cortez for three weeks before heading over to Mazatlan on the mainland for Christmas with our family. We’ve come 5,285 miles from our first day on the water in Seattle and have used 2,156 gallons of fuel in 832 hours to get to La Paz..
Leg VI will eventually take us further south to new and exciting destinations as we move towards the Panama Canal. Our time schedule is still fluid. We wait to see how the next few months unfold before we plan for sure what we want to do and at what pace. This is truly the essence of cruising…no schedule, no set itinerary just seemingly endless days of fun on the water. We hope you will continue to travel with us as this future unfolds…
###
Los Cabos to Muertos Bay
11/18 Sunday
Latitude: 23:58.90 N Longitude: 109:49.25 W
Weather: sunny Wind: 00 10-15 kts. Barometer: 1012
Engine Hours: 825 Fuel on Board: 441
Trip Distance/Total: 30/5238
It’s 3 AM when we start the engine and ease out of the marina to turn north. The beautiful, clear, moonless night is made special by a barrage of meteors streaking across the eastern sky. By daylight, we are well on our way to Muertos Bay, a small anchorage tucked into a bight of rock before you round the point for La Paz. Our plan is to get there early enough to get a good spot close in out of the rollers that tend to round the point. We also want to anchor close to D&K who came up overnight and ahead of the rest of the fleet.
There were already 10 boats in Muertos but the best spot was open just off the Giggling Marlin at the north end in about 30 feet - right next to Dreamweaver too. A lazy afternoon is spent aboard WS resting up for tonight’s festivities ashore. The plan is for Panga’s to pick us up and take us ashore to the new resort Bahia de los Suenos for drinks and dinner. This is a new vacation home development with lots selling from $400,000US to over $6-million. The owner’s house is one of the most incredible single family homes I’ve ever experienced. The party was fun too. It was held in a huge open two story party house complete with kitchen, bar, and multiple LGB trains running all around the second story balcony.
The evening concluded with fireworks and a bonfire at the beach before our panga ride back to a darkened WS. Her underwater lights quickly had the local fish swarming around the stern under a canopy of stars and any envy for the luxury life ashore soon slipped away as we pondered the specialness of our floating home that can see the world.
###
Day in the port of Los Cabos
11/17 Saturday
Family day would best describe today’s activities. Morning was spent by the girls shopping for provisions at Costco after picking Dottie up in Cabo while Mike, John, and I shop around the Cabo waterfront for fishing/boat supplies. Lunch was at my favorite boater’s hangout on the main quay till they came to pick us up.
Next we dropped John at the airport for his trip home before finishing up the provisioning at the Giant market outside Los Cabos before returning to WS to clean up for dinner. After dropping off the rental car, we caught a ride to the main street of Los Cabos for dinner at the Tropicana - one on the nicest restaurants in all of Baja - certainly one of the most authentic in design.
Early departure tomorrow for Muertos so it was lights out on WS as soon as we return to the marina.
###
Santa Maria Bay to Los Cabos
11/16 Friday
Latitude: 23:03.71 N Longitude: 109:40.19 W
Weather: sunny Wind: 0450 20-25 kts. Barometer: 1013
Engine Hours: 810 Fuel on Board: 486
Trip Distance/Total: 32/5164
Fishing is full on again by daybreak. Seas are really rough so we elect not to drop a line not wanting to stop in the short steep swells if we did get a fish on. We round Cabo Falso by 0800 and the pass Cabo San Lucas with her hundreds of sport fishing boats heading out for a day on the Gulf.
Marina Puerto Los Cabos is so new there is no hint of it on the charts. It’s weird heading into a big, full service marina without the detailed navigation support we were so used to in Alaska. By noon, Jim, the harbormaster, is on the radio though to talk us into one of the brand new slips. Soon we are busy doing the mundane boat work again of getting the salt and dirt off WS and refilling her near empty water tanks.
Selene is hosting the party tonight at Tommie’s Barefoot Cantina just down the harbor so by 6PM we’re headed that way with Mike and Diane who have now joined our crew from Denver. Early evening and several margaritas later and you’ll find our crew heading for the bright lights of El Squid Row in Cabo. Table dancing, 2 foot long drinks, and festivities lead by the “substitute pimp” from a perch in the middle of the dance floor. Given our advancing years it’s good to know we can still get down with the young’uns but glad we have a day to recoup before heading to Muertos Bay.
###
Santa Maria Bay to Los Cabos
11/15 Thursday - At sea…
Latitude: 23:03.71 N Longitude: 109:40.19 W
Weather: mostly sunny Wind: 0450 8-10 kts. Barometer: 1013
Engine Hours: 786 Fuel on Board: 536
Trip Distance/Total: 160/5134
Anchor up before first light for the final leg south to Cabo. Fishing was great today with John catching a beautiful Yellowtail tuna for dinner. As we near Mag Bay’s entrance, the rest of our Selene Fleet is just pulling out too so we travel together for the first time for a few hours.
Most of our fleet is into serious fishing today with many heading out to several different “banks” looking for the big ones. Reports of 30 pound plus dorado, 100 pound marlin, and even wahoo come over the radio all day. Evening approaches with building seas and a wind that peaks around 25 knots later but happily both are from behind and only push us along towards our destination.
Fish on!
The overnight is quiet with only a couple of cruise ships out of Cabo heading north that pass through the fleet to stir things up.
###
The day at anchor in Santa Maria Bay
11/14 Wednesday
Most of the fleet is moving on 30-miles to Magdalena Bay but the Three Tortugas (Paloma, Alanui and WS) decide to stay put and just enjoy the day in place. High tide has us heading up the lagoon in the dinghy with D&K. Once past the several fish camps, it’s on to the end of the mangroves for some hiking over to the opposite, sea side on the finger that encloses the bay. Of interest is the wreck of the old side-wheeler, “Golden City” en route to San Francisco with a cargo of gold bars that went aground here in 1870. Fights reportedly broke out as a panic ensued for places in the life rafts with several lives lost to saber’s. Most of the ship is gone except for the keel and a ghostly superstructure that must have been around her engine room.
Afternoon is busy doing some odds jobs back on WS. Jo sets off on a hike up into the hills with Susan from Paloma while John and I nap. Tonight’s evening festivities have us all aboard Dreamweaver for a potluck BBQ with the crew of Paloma. Its late by the time we return, the moon is starting to make some light and the wind has died down to its usual 14 knots so all is calm for our night in this beautiful bay.
###
Turtle Bay to Santa Maria Bay
11/13 Tuesday
Latitude: 24:46.61 N Longitude: 112:15.26 W
Weather: sunny Wind: 0450 8-10 kts. Barometer: 1013
Engine Hours: 779 Fuel on Board: 629
Trip Distance/Total: 49/4972
Up early for my watch so was able to try out Single Side Band for the 0700 Amigo Net check-in but could not read the very weak, static filled signal. Need to try again with all of our electronics off to see if that is the difference once we are at anchor. Had the tackle in the water by 0800 but so far just teaching another lure how to swim.
We stayed about ½ mile off the point (Punta Hughes) as we approached the Bay and are now south enough to be free of kelp at a last. Rounding the bend, most of the fleet are already at anchor and hard at play. It is easy to find a spot for WS at the north end, closer to the lagoon entrance in about 30′ of water. Once the hook is set and the dinghy down, not much time is left till we are due ashore for dinner. Tide is out so everyone uses the local fishing pangas to get ashore thru the surf and by 5PM the party is in full swing. Mag Bay Outfitters have prepared a traditional native feast of black bean soup, shrimp over rice, and some sort of chicken/potato dish with tortillas.
D & K on Dreamweaver are able to catch up and join us in time for dinner with the gang as well. It’s after dark when we head back thru the surf to the yachts, everyone is tired from the long trip down so it’s to off to bed after a quick episode of Boston Legal.
###
Turtle Bay to Santa Maria Bay - overnight passage
11/12 Monday
Latitude: 24:46.61 N Longitude: 112:15.263 W
Weather: PC, light rain becoming sunny Wind: 3150 18-20 kts.
Barometer: 1013
Engine Hours: 755 Fuel on Board: 701
Trip Distance/Total: 178/4924
Up early but to no avail as the time change to Mountain Time kept it dark till 0630 and with the lobster traps at the entrance, a pre-dawn departure was not advised. Had the anchor up and on our way south by 0700 and quickly settled into our routine of watches and boat chores.
Fishing line was deployed by 10:00am but only had one hit and we could not get it close enough to the boat to see what it was, just not all that big for sure. The day continued to warm up into the seventies with water temperature to match…finally I’m warm again!
We had some light rain in the early morning which was just enough to wash away all of the red dust left in every nook and cranny from the heavy Santa Ana winds during WS’s stay in Ensenada.
Late in the day I noticed the house batteries were getting low so we ran the generator for a couple of hours to get them back up above 27 volts. Seems like they do better when fully charged, but they have little chance of keeping up with the refrigerator running full time due to warm weather and constant opening of the door. We’ll need to figure this out better as we get closer to the tropics.
Nice enough to BBQ dinner but sadly no fish to grill! Chicken was good though and the sea calm enough for the three of us to have a nice main salon dinner while watching for boat traffic on the ships radar which we can feed to the salon TV. Jo takes the first watch tonight as I need to catch up on some sleep before my turn at 3AM. The night passes quietly with only radio chatter to keep you aware of the fact you are not alone out here.
###
A day at anchor in Turtle Bay
11/11 Sunday
The crew is up late this morning catching up on missing voyage/party sleep while your captain is up early plotting the course for tomorrow’s 230-mile voyage to Santa Maria.
Eventually, once all are up, an expedition ashore is organized with D & K to further explore the village and hit Annabelle’s for lunch. Of interest is a stop along the way at the local cemetery with a personally escorted tour by a local he/she character who insists on pointing out each relative and how they fit into the family picture.
At anchor in Turtle Bay
###
Ensenada to Turtle Bay - overnight passage continued
11/10 Saturday At sea…
Latitude: 27:39.89 N Longitude: 114:53.34 W
Weather: overcast Wind: 3360 8-10 kts. Barometer: 1016
Engine Hours: 755 Fuel on Board: 702
Trip Distance/Total: 278/4745
First light finds us just off the north end of Isla Cedros, a 20-mile long mountain that lies just off shore of Turtle Bay. The group decided to slide down the inside (towards the mainland) side of the island to give us a rest from the now 8′ quartering seas and steady 24 knots of wind. Not much remarkable on the island as we pass about 2-miles off shore except a small fish camp on the north end and the fish fertilizer/salt works on the south end. The rest of the FUBAR has begun to catch us from first light on and soon all of the go-fast, big yachts are steaming past.
Canal de Keller, the pass between the island and the mainland entrance to Turtle Bay, proves to be rough, windy and full of lobster pots - a nasty combination. The boat “Unreel” just ahead of us catches a trap rope with their prop and being a twin can continue to limp into the bay for repairs. The remainder of the fleet passes through with no problem but the very cautious and quiet concern is palatable. Only about 20-boats beat us in as we round Punta Sargazo (Kelp Point) and head into the bay proper. Happily, all of the larger boats anchored just inside the entrance leaving the best positions. Just off the village fuel pier open for our little band of smaller boats. Dottie & Ken on Dreamweaver have arrived a few minutes ahead of us and picked up a spot just east of the pier.
We drop the hook for the first time in Mexico in 22-feet about 400-yards from the village of Puerto San Bartolome. After securing WS from sea, we board a local Panga and head straight over to the pier for a walk around town. Naturally, we wind up in the small pub on the hill called Veracruz for some 20 peso ($2) beers before heading back to WS to get ready for the night FUBAR activities.
Annabelle’s is the night’s venue for cocktails and dinner on the beach for the whole gang of FUBAR. It is a collection of several large easy-ups with a cooking area and a band stand. During the day it doubles as the fuel barge staging area. The party is a bit slow to start as most sailors are still tired for the overnight passages. Not long after dinner, the Nordhavn folks with the other sport fishing boats can be found waiting on the beach for a panga ride home while we Selener’s are still dancing with the local’s and even Annabelle herself till the last man/woman is standing.
###
Ensenada to Turtle Bay - overnight passage continued
11/09 Friday At Sea…
Latitude: 27:39.89 N Longitude: 114:53.34 W
Weather: overcast Wind: 3360 8-10 kts. Barometer: 1016
Engine Hours: 726 Fuel on Board: 782
Trip Distance/Total: 164/4710
Our first full day at sea in over a month went smoothly as we headed steadily south. It never did get sunny but the air temp reached almost 70 with water temp pushing 60. No other boat traffic during daylight but the feeling prevails that the FUBAR fleet is closing behind and poised to start passing us sometime tonight.
The night is quiet and dark with the seas gradually building from astern. The wind is rising too as predicted and reaches 20 to 24 knots before nights end. About 0400, Paloma radios that her stuffing box (keeps sea water out around the prop shaft) is overheating and has reached 160 degrees - a potentially dangerous situation. We slow down to 5 knots and maintain our position as the crew sorts out the problem. It was determined that nothing could be done at sea other than to keep it cool by dripping fresh water through a hose from inside the boat. This works great and soon the temp drops to a normal 86 degrees and we are on our way again.
###
Ensenada to Turtle Bay - overnight passage
11/8 Thursday
Latitude: 27:39.89 N Longitude: 114:53.34 W
Weather: overcast Wind: 3360 8-10 kts. Barometer: 1015
Engine Hours: 714 Fuel on Board: 800 (Filled in Ensenada)
Trip Distance/Total: 80/4547
Underway at last! After a month as landlubbers, we’re on our way to La Paz with the FUBAR - Fleet Underway to Baja Rally - a group of 50 like minded powerboats that will make this 800+ mile journey together. The best part of traveling with a group is fun people you meet and the parties we will have at the five stops along the way.
We stop at Cruiseport downtown for a quick 5:30PM skippers meeting followed by one last shop at the local market for missing provisions and a quick bite to eat at El Tortuga. Next a taxi to Hotel Coral andMarina has us back on Wandering Star (WS) by 7:10 so we are ready to drop our dock lines by 8PM as planned. We’ve decided to travel the night with two smaller Nordhavns, Alanui, a 40′ with Scott and Marion and Paloma, a 43′ with Susan, Patrick and Jonathan. We are leaving earlier that the rest of the fleet so that we can travel at the slower speed of seven knots. Everyone else on the larger boats will start leaving from midnight till daybreak.
We clear the Coral Breakwater by 8:15 and make our turn south with the lights of Ensenada spread out around the bay to Port. It is our plan to stay about ½ mile apart and run at 7-knots through the night as we line up single file with WS bringing up the rear. No moon, of course, but with the overcast sky it probably does not matter. The first challenge does not wait long to show up as a tug & tow leave the main port and head straight for us at 9-knots. Thankfully, within a mile, it turns to parallel our course and soon we all are heading south through the same passage between mainland point and the islands of Todos Santos.
Our nephew John is on board for the voyage to help with the boat duties so the early evening is spent getting him used to the navigation electronics on WS. The rest of the night passes quietly with just the odd fishing boat here and there to keep life interesting. Dawn has us still in line and in sight of land but 12-miles offshore as we begin to cross the first of two large bays that make up the west coast of Baja.
By 0800, we are 80-miles closer to Turtle Bay still under overcast skies. The water is warming up though so can warm weather be far away? I hope not! Dottie & Ken on Dreamweaver are out here somewhere having left a couple days earlier to do some coastal exploring instead of the FUBAR route which then have done twice before. The hope is that we will all meet up again in Turtle Bay or Mag Bay at the latest.
Fuel Notes:
Added 530.7 gallons at $1.99/gallon
To date fuel used at filling; 1847 at 714 engine hours.
Usable on board 750+gallons. Average = 2.5gal/hour.
###
The Southern tip of Baja, Cabo Sab Lucas
