The Panama Canal Bacchanal
June 2008
We did it…made it all the way down the coast from Alaska to just above the equator, and through the Panama Canal. It’s a real benchmark for sailors to have gone through on “your own bottom”. Thought I’d tell you how it went from my side of the boat.
Miraculously, we were able to schedule our transit day with great friends Les and Rose on Voyager, and at the 11th hour, sister Dottie and husband Ken on Dreamweaver. No word on whether we’d be together, or even if we would be in the same lock. We didn’t know if we’d be tied to tug boats, on the wall, or centered, but the same day was a great start.
An awful lot of preparation goes into transiting the canal. We’d already gathered 20 tires to drape around the outside of Wandering Star, had rented four 125′ lines and completed a few rounds of paperwork which began weeks before the transit, etc. Our agent was most helpful, but not very punctual so we had three days of hurry up and wait for him to do one thing at a time. He told us stories of what to do and not do. The “AD-measure” lady came to measure and inspect the boat, and she told us stories too. People we met on the docks and at the restaurants all had tales to tell. And then, Dottie & Ken helped other friends out as line handlers a few days before and they’d had a disastrous time, had to be towed, spend the night in the lakes, pay over $2000 in fines, etc…and they were very experienced sailors on a finely fitted yacht! So, the anxiety was amping up! While the guys waited for the various officials, the girls were busy gathering every conceivable item we’d need. A lot of food and drink, and also extra chairs, umbrellas, new cameras, etc! A big part of our job was to take care of the people who would become part of our “crew”.
We were given a line up time for 7AM on Monday, June 2nd. We were quite sleepless the night before after hearing all those horror stories of folks that’d gone before. We were told that if the pilot didn’t like what you were serving for lunch, he could and would call for a launch to bring him lunch…at a cost of about $250; $10 for lunch and $240 for the launch. One guy apparently ONLY eats KFC chicken, and believe me, we tried to find it just in case. We’d heard tales of lazy line handlers who wanted to drink beer all day (I’d hidden ours) and were not properly trained. We were told if we couldn’t make it thru the locks in a certain time, we would have to moor in Gatun Lake, pay twice the fees AND keep everyone aboard (sans pilot) so I’d have to find places for four big sweaty guys to sleep and of course another round of meals. I had so much food socked away you’d have thought it was Thanksgiving weekend - I precooked dishes for a fussy pilot/advisor and had lots of lunch choices and carbs and junk food for snacks for the line handlers.
Monday morning: We were up at 5AM, it was pouring and the lightening was wild…nice start! I had to get my egg soufflé (I know, maybe a bit over the top) in the oven and have it ready for the pilot and crews breakfast, plus had to fashion a coffee pot out of a funnel and thermos using coffee borrowed from Dot (we don’t drink it) so I could offer it. God forbid the pilot wanted coffee and I didn’t have any ($5 for Starbucks, $245 for the launch). I was just a little anxious…
Well, the rain let up a little, then the line handlers showed up and glory be - they were great guys, very professional and funny. Then the skies cleared, and we three Trawlers headed over to the Balboa approach area - all VHF radios were tuned into Channel 12, our handhelds to Channel 68 so we could talk between boats and still not miss a word from the canal control people, we circled and awaited the two headed dragons (pilot/advisors). We couldn’t see who got on Dreamweaver, but when the pilot launch got near us, our crew started laughing and heckling him- apparently they all knew our pilot and loved working with him. Jose was the sweetest guy, very easy going, genial, joked with the guys and was happy with every little thing. He wanted whatever I was serving. Coffee, okay, but tea or just water would do as well. Then he delivered the best news - we three would be rafted together for the transit - unbelievable!
We motored in, as Voyager was the largest at almost 60 feet they were center with Wandering Star on her starboard and Dreamweaver on her port. The crews were very professional and got us lashed together snugly. Two of our line handlers and two of Dreamweaver’s grabbed the monkey fist with the messenger lines that the Canal (ACP) handlers tossed down (a big thud on deck) and then fastened the eyes of the 125′ lines so the ACP guys can haul them back up to secure to the bollards. That left little for the other 8 line handlers to do… so they danced! Really. They brought their CD’s along and all knew each other and they danced, and laughed, and ate their way thru the day! We girls (Rose, Dottie and I) climbed from boat to boat to visit and take pictures. Loren Hafen was onboard Dreamweaver as a line handler, but with the two “professionals” he was able to be ships photographer. Katie and Gerry, Les’ parents were aboard Voyager and were a big part of the celebration. Our captains had to stay at the helm, and Les was the one driving when we were rafted together (he said it felt like trying to land a 747), so the guys were working, but still having fun. Loren brought banners to support Big Bear Olympian Ryan Hall (Marathon this summer in China - GO RYAN) which we tied to our boats, Rose made a God Bless America sign and we all had large USA flags which we flew with pride…after all if not for the USA there’d be no canal! It was quite festive.
It just had to be the BEST CANAL TRANSIT ever. Going thru with dear friends and family, a fun loving crew and knowledgeable and easy going advisor/pilots - perfecto!
It was a long day and we didn’t clear out of the locks until dusk and it was dark by the time the pilot was picked up and the crew dropped at the PCYC. We felt our way into Shelter Bay Marina (hardest task of the day in the dark) quickly tied up and gathered on the docks for a champagne toast! And another one…and maybe just another little one! It was leftover junk food for dinner and then we all collapsed onto our bunks with self satisfied smiles on our faces. Ya shoulda been there!
