The Gold Coast
February 2008
George and Joanne on Kalinga are as great as we remembered. We met them on the docks at the Marriott in San Diego over four years ago on the eve of their departure for Mexico. They haven’t been back since. They have made a wonderful life for themselves down here. They go south for the winter, then back up to the Sea of Cortez , Mazatlan or PV for the hotter, wet summers. Sometimes they take a condo, sometimes they spent several weeks with friends back up in the PNW or in other locales, and are ready again come late fall to explore the coast again. We asked what their favorite place is and they just don’t know, they like it all, Mexico and Mexicans. They think they might just rent homes in different towns when they are finished cruising, that way they will have a kind of mobility, similar to what they have enjoyed so much on the water…they have it figured out nicely.
We spent six nights here, it’s a perfect anchorage. With Kalinga nearby, and other friendly cruisers, each day was fun. We had them over, they has us over - George is a fantastic cook and we enjoyed a special meal they prepared for us…We took the dinghy ashore, again pleased with our decision of an additional smaller, lighter dinghy that will come back with us in March. The beach landings are a hoot…timing is everything, that and a strong back to lug the beast ashore. The beach goes forever and offers great opportunities to walk. We also just hung out one day, did a few boat chores, watching as a few boats haul anchor and leave, and then more come in to take a slightly different spot, the scene changes constantly. Kalinga is going to PV to help host a wedding, so we said hasta la bye bye, knowing we will see them next month in Santiago.
We next moved south into picturesque, colorful Careyes. Not much room to anchor, but thanks to a shout out by S/V Jacaranda, we were directed to the perfect spot, just off the beach, but far enough from the rocks and other moored fishing panga’s to know we would not go bump in the night. This is a deluxe, secluded resort with colorful terraced cottages, wild bougainvillea and charming restaurants on the beach. We went ashore for nice walks, and a delicious lunch one day, and on another day, a dinghy explore around the bay, and then a romantic dinner at the resort. Ade had anchored the dink for a more elegant retrieval, but the tide came in even higher than anticipated, so, with a careful look around to insure we were alone (still the only boat in the anchorage, very few hotel guests and none in sight), he decided to shed his evening wear and go starkers into the sea to fetch the dinghy for his lady (that would be me, now doubled over with laughter) - a fun night.
We are really getting to heart of this aptly dubbed, Gold Coast, cruising to places those who’ve gone ahead of us said we would love. And we do.
Bahia Tenacatita is a great anchorage, another one of those magical places where there is room for everyone, it’s free, there are things to do ashore, nice villagers, a hotel with wi-fi, and a turtle egg preserve, a good “local” palapa beach restaurant for gatherings, etc. The special feature of Tenacatita is the Jungle River dinghy trip.
We saw friends David, Mary and Jim from M/V Jenny, on our arrival and decided to go ashore for a gathering Saturday night at the palapa where we were delighted to see several familiar faces, and have the opportunity to meet new people.
On Sunday, we went ashore for a nice long walk along the beach and to explore the hotel and turtle egg reserve and then made a wet re-entry thru the surf to get back to WS. We heard our names being called and were hailed over to the lovely Moody Blues where a birthday brunch was being held for Helen on Jammin. They didn’t care that we were wet and sandy, and after a mimosa, neither did we. We met several really great couples, and had an opportunity to toast the beautiful Helen who is as fresh and adorable as a kid. Hubby Dave is recovering from an encounter with a stingray (stepped on it buried in the sand) as he was boarding his dinghy in the bay. This painful, I guess it’s a “stabbing” had him incapacitated all week. Thankfully Dr. Jerry was in the anchorage and along with support for the cruising community, he was well on the mend from this really scary accident. The next day we had dinner aboard Jammin - we finally got together for a nice long, visit. We’ve been chasing each other since Tracy Arm in Alaska, and now we fear we will lose them as they turn north for the summer soon. They are one of those very capable couples who make everything themselves, including the wine! We wish they were going south this year too, but just know we will see them again…somewhere…out there.
We joined the crew of Jenny for the jungle cruise on Monday…it’s quite different than the San Blas jungle tour, but nonetheless enjoyable. We kept an eye out for crocs, but only really saw birds. It turns and twists and reminded us of the Everglades. We had little traffic, but it takes a while to get to the end of the river, where it ends on a beach lined with tienda’s and restaurants, and just in time for a nice walk and then lunch in the shade of thatch umbrella. We raced back, Jenny’s dink is faster than ours- darn! But wait, ‘what to my wondering eyes doth appear?’ Voyager! Ahoy Voyager! Les and Rose are on the move again and they caught up. Yippee. They, as you may remember, were the Selene Fubar leaders and also people we’ve been having so much fun with since the Selene Rendezvous in Roche Harbor in April, and Alaska in May. That’s the cool thing about the cruising lifestyle, just as you have to say goodbye to someone, other friends show up and you pick up where you left off. It’s not stagnant, we are all thrilled to be out here, can hardly believe our luck to be so free, and while it’s incredibly social, it’s also independent. Each couple (most of us are couples) is following their own dream, going at their own pace. You find that you will encounter those on the same general itinerary over and over, but seldom for more than a few days at a time. So, it’s fantastic when you find each other again. It’s this community that make missing family and dear friends at home bearable. We do miss you.
We couldn’t wait to swap tales and lucky for us, join them for fresh Mahi-Mahi as Les caught a Dorado on the way into the bay! We always have such fun with them. They will stay here for a few days while we leave in the morning for Barra de Navidad, then they get in at the end of the week…kind of like leap frog.
We have heard “Barra” stories for months, it’s like, “You will LOVE Barra”, “wait til you get to Barra”…so I am afraid it might be too much of an Oz-like buildup for me. It’s not.
The first thing you see is the Bahia Grand Resort on what appears to be an island. Its main buildings sit quite high on the hill, with buildings terraced down from that to the pristine beach on one side, and a marina with mega yachts on the other…oh my…it is OZ. Here’s Daedus, the Boeing Yacht from Lake Union, and a row of 100 + footers along one dock, and mere 70′ + in most of the others. Nice crowd. We find our spot tucked back in with the smaller vessels and glide in. There is a large but shallow lagoon beyond the resort where 30+ boats are anchored. The marina is pricey, unless you are going to stay for a month as we are, then its actually quite reasonable.
Because the marina is on one side of the lagoon entrance and the small village of Barra de Navidad on the other, there is no walking to “town”. We were trying to get our bearings to find a water taxi and the Port Capitan’s office when we hear the putt putt of an outboard engine. Surprise! John & Gaye from Maestra have arrived! We haven’t seen them since the Baja HaHa 05 where they were the unofficial leaders of the Trawler Trash M/V’s that crashed the traditional sailboat race from San Diego. They look great, it’s hard to believe that they have traveled up and down the coast of Mexico, thru Central America and down to Ecuador and the Galapagos! They traveled extensively inland, seeing the Andes, Machu Picchu, Chile, Argentina, etc., They set aside three years from their businesses (she runs a preschool, and they own Toby’s Tavern in Whidbey Island) and are scheduled to return this summer. What stories they have to tell. We have driven them nuts with questions, and been fortunate to share a few meals together (he’s also a great chef-restaurant owner and all).
Thus began another week (my birthday week) of visiting boats, meeting people, scribbling notes from those returning adventurers who’ve already been there-done that, and making plans for the future with those on our path. We’ve roamed around the villages of Barra, Melaque, Colimilla on foot, and on a long one-day car rental, went out to see what is around the corner in Manzanillo so we can plan our next leg. We were lucky enough to be invited to a fabulous home here just outside the resort gates in the village of Colimilla. John & Vicki are friends of Les and Rose’s and D & K’s, and we’d been told to look them up. Really great people who sold their large sailboat in favor of a smaller launch and this incredible place and now live here most of the year. They work closely with the small village school providing much needed items. They have set up a wifi network in the Barra Lagoon and cruisers anchored in the lagoon can buy a month of coverage from them with the proceeds going to the school. It’s a fraction of what the hotel charges, so it’s a win win situation. The house is jaw dropping in its understated elegance - as they opened the modest front door you enter this tropical world with a killer view out onto the lagoon. There are several levels of indoor/outdoor living with lush gardens throughout - bedrooms, kitchen, office and several places to lounge in the comfy sofas and chairs, some under a palapa thatch roof, others under a tree…it’s bright and colorful with secret little corners everywhere. It feels heavenly and it just suits them perfectly. We laughed and listened to stories for hours. Such fun.
We finally have had time to follow up on information we are getting about marinas we will need reservations for in Central America, Panama and Cartegena. We are swapping info on insurance companies, which is a big consideration as we plan our itinerary. Will we be restricted in our movements during the dreaded “hurricane” season? Will we even get coverage? How does that affect our plans? Les and Ade are shooting emails back and forth and we are coming up with a realistic plan.
There are a lot of different ideas out there, some who have gone south and hated it and come right back, some can’t stand the long rainy, hot summers and fill our heads with stories of incredible lightning, torrential rains, corrupt officials - while others delight in the summer rain, the friendly natives and officials and think it’s the best time to explore San Blas and Cartegena. At one point we thought we would just leave the boat in Costa Rica for the summer and fly home, but there isn’t a “good” place to leave here there and we really hate to miss half a year of travel…we aren’t getting any younger. We’ve pretty much decided to keep going after our March break home for work and family. We might as well do all we can in this neutral zone of CR, Panama, San Blas Islands and Cartegena. We will then be in a position to start on the Caribbean come November, thus giving us a full winter to cruise from island to island. There are several boats here planning on this schedule, and we are excited to know we will be in good company. And, since they face the same weather constraints, there is a chance we will be able to connect with D&K again to do at least part of this region together–which we’d all like.
We are packing up to head home - making lists like crazy as we will have a lot to bring back to prepare WS and ourselves for a summer in the jungle. Think insect repellant by the gallon, rain gear and a lot more provisions. Our days of dining out, and easily obtained staples are coming to an end we are told…gasp, I might have to cook again! Poor Ade will have to eat it. I wonder how many cans of chili the boat will hold???
